2	whole beef briskets, 6 pounds (2.9 kg) each

presoaked mesquite, hickory, and/or apple wood chips (optional)

1	recipe Texas Barbecue Sauce

1	recipe Carolina Barbecue Sauce

24	Kaiser rolls, split

Spice Rub:

3	tablespoons (45 ml) good-quality chili powder

3	tablespoons (45 ml) paprika

2	teaspoons (10 ml) dry mustard

2	teaspoons (10 ml) garlic powder

2	teaspoons (20 ml) onion powder

1	teaspoon (5 ml) freshly ground black pepper

1	teaspoon (5 ml) cayenne pepper

1	teaspoon (5 ml) crushed dried thyme

1	teaspoon (5 ml) ground cumin

salt (optional)

1. Combine the ingredients for the spice rub. Store in a covered jar until ready to use.
2. Rub the spice mixture into both sides of the briskets, coating evenly. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour or refrigerate, covered, for up to 24 hours. Return to room temperature before cooking.
3. To cook in the oven, preheat the oven to 325° (160°C, Gas Mark 3). Wrap the briskets separately in heavy-duty aluminum foil and place in a shallow baking pan on a rack. Fill the bottom of the pan with 1/2 inch of water. Bake for 5 to 6 hours, until the meat is very tender, adding more water to the bottom of the pan, if needed.
4. Light a grill. Add presoaked wood chips (if using). Unwrap the briskets and grill over medium heat for 10 to 15 minutes per side, until meat is nicely browned.
5. Transfer meat to a carving board and let stand for 15 minutes before thinly slicing across the grain. (May be done ahead to this point: spread the top of each brisket with 1 cup of one of the barbecue sauces, rewrap in foil, and refrigerate.)
6. To reheat the brisket. place the wrapped packages in a 300° (149°C) oven for about 1 hour, until meat is hot.
7. Just before serving, reheat the barbecue sauces to a simmer. Transfer the hot meat to a serving platter and place a basket filled with the sliced rolls alongside. Offer the sauces in decorative bowls to spoon over the beef as your guests assemble their own sandwiches.

   Texas Barbecue Sauce:

   2	teaspoon (10 ml) olive oil

   2	large sweet onions, 8 ounces (240 g) each, finely chopped

   2	jalapeño chiles, seeded and minced

   2	large cloves garlic, finely minced

   1	tablespoon (15 ml) dry mustard

   2	teaspoons (10 ml) paprika

   1/2	teaspoon (2.5 ml) cayenne pepper

   2	cups (544 g) ketchup

   2	cups (544 g) bottled chile sauce

   1/2	cup (164 g) molasses

   1/2	cup (120 ml) white wine vinegar

   1/4	cup (60 ml) fresh lemon juice

   1/4	cup (60 ml) Worcestershire sauce

   2	large bay leaves, broken in half

   salt (optional) to taste

8. In a large pot, heat oil over medium heat. Add the onions, chile, and garlic. Cook, stirring often, until onions are limp, about 5 minutes. Stir in the dry mustard, paprika, and cayenne pepper. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute, until spices are fragrant.
9. Add the remaining ingredients; stir to blend well. Simmer gently, uncovered, stirring often for about 30 minutes. Remove the bay leaves. Use the sauce at once or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. Reheat before using. Makes 7 cups (1,680 ml) sauce.

   Carolina Barbecue Sauce:

   4	cups white wine vinegar

   1 1/2

   cups (408 g) ketchup

   spoonable sugar substitute to equal 2/3 cup granulated sugar

   1/4	cup (84 g) honey

   1	teaspoon (5 ml) cayenne pepper

   2	teaspoons (10 ml) freshly ground black pepper

   salt (optional) to taste

10. In a medium saucepan, mix together the vinegar, ketchup, sugar substitute, honey, black pepper, cayenne pepper, and salt (if using). Simmer over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes.
11. Use the sauce at once or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. Reheat before using. Makes 6 cups (720 ml) sauce.